Guide to the Dodecanese Islands

The Dodecanese Islands are located in the southeastern Aegean Sea between the Cyclades and Turkey’s Anatolian Peninsula. The farthest island group from the Greek mainland, they aren’t as popular as the Cyclades, standing out for their tranquil beaches and medieval architecture. The two largest, Rhodes and Kos, have an especially thriving tourism industry focused on beaches and nightlife, which replaced traditional agriculture. Other popular islands like Symi and Halki built their wealth from the sea, particularly in the 19th century, resulting in appealing port towns. Patmos, another favorite among travelers, offers landscapes and architecture that’s more similar to the Cyclades. Most of the other Dodecanese are smaller in size and generally considered to be more alternative vacation destinations.

There are regular ferries from Piraeus Port in Athens to the Dodecanese Islands; however, it’s a very long journey, ranging from 13 to 20 hours depending on the weather and the particular type of vessel. The quicker option is to fly from Athens International Airport. There are direct flights to the airports in Karpathos, Kos, and Rhodes. If you want to visit one of the other islands in the Dodecanese you might fly to Rhodes, for example, and then catch a ferry. Regular ferries run throughout the archipelago. In the summer there are also ferries from Crete to Kasos and Karpathos. You can also take ferries from Turkey, running from Bodrum to Kos Town, and Marmaris to Rhodes Town during the summer.

The secluded, remote island of Patmos is located between Leros, Ikaria, and Fourni. It’s best known as the place where Saint John is said to have written the closing pages of the New Testament, the Book of Revelations, in the  Cave of the Apocalypse. The cave is where all religions say the world’s creator appeared. At the hilltop Chora, one can visit the Monastery of Saint John. The narrow streets of the Old Town are lined with medieval churches, grand mansions, and  traditional whitewashed homes. There’s lots of spectacular nature too, including lush mountains with forests for hiking and a beautiful shoreline with sandy beaches, some of which are tucked into hidden coves. All are framed by crystal-clear turquoise water for swimming.

The westernmost island in the Dodecanese, Astypalaia is home to just over 1,300 residents, providing plenty of tranquility, a centuries-old history, whitewashed villages, and serene beaches while surrounded by sapphire waters. It dates back to ancient times while the Castle of Astypalaia on Chora’s highest hill can be seen from miles away. Built by the Venetians in the early 13th century, its walls contain tone memorial tablets. There are a number of churches at its base, including  the 18th-century Portaitissa Orthodox Church, built by a Gerek monk, the island’s most important Orthodox pilgrimage site. Drakos Cave, or the Dragon Cave, is a top attraction with stalactites and stalagmites. It’s also said to have been a hiding place of pirate treasure.

While not the island for raging nightlife, Kaymons is ideal for adventurers and those seeking tranquility. It provides a more unique experience, having managed to remain wild and unspoiled. One of the most authentic destinations in the Dodecanese, and throughout the Greek islands, it’s known for its craggy cliffs and steep mountains that attract expert climbers as well as its sponge industry as a former international supplier. While sponge fishing is still practiced, it’s much more limited now. Visitors can enjoy swimming and snorkeling in beautiful blue waters, mouthwatering seafood, and exploring the picturesque ancient area in the region of Chorio. The capital and port is known for its orange and pink painted buildings with narrow streets, spread amphitheatrically across two hills.

Secluded Kastellorizo is just over a mile from Turkey’s Lycian coast, a 10-minute speedboat ride or 30 minutes by ferry. For a small island, it offers a lot, from castles and ancient fortresses to mosques, windmills, historic markets, and wine presses. The only populated area is the capital, known as Kastelorizo and Megisti, the island’s name in antiquity. Located on the southeast side, it’s also the only village and harbor. Filled with colorful facades, neoclassical houses and wooden balconies, it’s incredibly picturesque. You’ll find plenty of shops, bars, cafes, and restaurants in addition to the ruins of a castle built by the Knights of Saint John. There is no nightlife to speak of, with the social scene revolving around the waterfront.

Hilly Leros is nestled between Patmos, Kalymnos, and Lipsi, just opposite the Turkish coastline. It features lush hills, idyllic beaches ranging from small stretches to large, sandy spans. Some offer many tourist facilities while others are tucked into secluded coves. Time seems to move at a slower pace here, away from the crowded tourist destinations. One can wander tranquil streets with buildings in a variety of architectural styles, including Cycladic, neoclassic, Italian, and art deco. The capital of Lakki is rather unusual with much of its architecture built in the 1920s and 1930s Italian razionalismo style, an urban design unusual in Greece. The most notable structure is the 11th-century Leros Castle in Panteli, a Byzantine fortress and a symbol of the island.

Tilos offers remote, quiet beauty with little tourism development. There are no sprawling resorts or exclusive beach clubs, but the island does offer decent beaches like Eristos with pebble and sand stretches, beautiful views, a cantina and beach cafe. It’s all about peace and tranquility, with an interesting historic and geological past that can be seen everywhere from the abandoned village of Mikro Chorio to the Monastery of Saint Panteleimon. A unique Russian monastery, the original building dates to the early 11th-century although the current one dates to 1765. At the heart of the island is Charkadio Cave, where the first fossilized teeth of dwarf elephants were discovered with the fines displayed at the Museum of Dwarf Elephants just outside the cave.

A wealth of outdoor activities are on offer in the Dodecanese, on land and water. Wind sports like kitesurfing and windsurfing are especially popular on Rhodes. Prassonisi at its southern tip has become world-famous for attracting experienced windsurfers to ride the powerful waves. Of course, you can swim off any of the islands’ shores. Symi in particular is renowned for its calm, clear turquoise water. Snorkeling, diving, and boat tours are just a few of the other water-related activities. On land, you might embark on a 4X4 to discover hidden places on Rhodes or take a hike with many islands ideal for scenic treks, including Rhodes, Symi, Kos, and Tilos with its largely untouched landscapes and old but still intact donkey trails.

Each of the Dodecanese Islands have their own food traditions with cuisine that includes traditional dishes and lots of fresh, local seafood. Karpathos is known for its local pasta called makarounes, made by hand using local flour and served with mizithra cheese and sauteed onions. The village of Apollo on Rhodes is renowned for slow-roasted goat, cooked in a wood-fired oven with beans and chickpeas, and served with onions and potatoes. On many islands, local eateries serve lamb shanks in a traditional dish called kapama. Pork is common throughout, such as pork with bulgar wheat on Kos while nearby Nisyros offers a similar dish known as moukounies. Symi is known for its Symi shrimp and squid cooked with loupevra, a wild green.